Two Methods for Tablecloth Yardage Estimations/Calculations
Method One:
Here is a method for estimating the yardage required for covering your table. With this method you will need to:
1. Measure the length and width of your table. Be sure to differentiate between the two measurements with “L” and “W.”
2. Determine the desired “drop” or overhang of the tablecloth. This is the length of the tablecloth that hangs over the table edge.
- Casual or everyday tablecloths: the drop is 10-12” or about 1-2” above the chair seat.
- Formal dining tablecloths: the drop is 16-24”.
- Floor-length tablecloths: the tablecloth reaches to within 1/2” of the floor (about 28-29”).
Method Two:
This method allows you to estimate yardage for all table shapes and sizes.
Calculate the Total Length Required:
- Measure the length of the table: _____(A)
- Determine the drop depth: _____(B)
- Casual drop = 10-12”
- Formal drop = 16-24”
- Full-length drop = 29”
- For utmost accuracy, always measure the desired drop length from the actual table for which the cloth is being made.
- Multiply the drop depth (B) times two (for both ends of the table) = _____(C)
- Add (A) and (C) plus all other length allowances:
_______ (A) length of table
+_______ (C) two times the drop depth
+_______ (D) hem allowances (add 4” for rectangular and square, 2” for all other
shapes)
+_______ (E) design repeat allowance (when using prints that should be matched, add one
design repeat)
=_______ (F) TOTAL LENGTH REQUIRED
Calculate the Total Width Required:
- Measure the width of the table: _____(G)
- Add (G) and (C) (two times the drop depth for both sides of the table) plus all other width allowances:
____ (G) width of table
+____ (C) two times drop depth
+____ (H) seam allowances (add 3”)
+____ (D) hem allowances (add 4” for rectangular and square, 2” for all other shapes)
=____ (I) TOTAL WIDTH REQUIRED
Calculate the Total Number of Fabric Lengths Required:
- Measure the usable width of the fabric: _____(J)
- Divide the Total Width Required ____ (I) by the usable fabric width ____ (J) = ____ (K)
- If (K) is uneven, round out to the next largest whole number = ____ (L) the number of lengths required to make the tablecloth.
Calculate the Total Yardage Required in Inches:
- Multiply (L) ____ (the number of lengths) times (F) ____(total length require) =____ (M) total inches.
- Convert the Total Number of Inches into Yards:
Divide (M) ____ by 36” = ____ TOTAL YARDS REQUIRED
Note: For most tablecloths, no extra yardage is required for napped fabric. However, when piecing and seaming the fabric, make certain that the nap runs in the same direction.
Piecing
Most tablecloths are wider than one fabric width, so piecing is required.
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Figure 1
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1. Cut the number of lengths from the total yardage required. (Figure 1.)
Note: If you are matching a print, measure and mark all lengths before cutting. There will probably be a space between the lengths. Some prints have an automatic pattern match line to facilitate seaming along selvage edges.
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Figure 2
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2. Piece as shown to avoid a seam running down the center of the table. Use a 1/2" seam allowance. (Figure 2.)
Seams: Super Simple Selvage Seam Finish
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Figure 3
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Most of the seams on tableclo ths will be finished with the selvage edge. Whenev er possibl e, arrange the lengths so that the raw edges on the half-width sections are on the perimeter of the tablecloth (which will get hemmed), and the selvage edges are in the middle (which will get seamed). Carefully clip into the selvages, if necessary, to prevent puckering. (Figure 3.)
Square and Rectangular Tablecloths
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Figure 4
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1. Seam all of the length pieces in the order you have arrange d them. Trim the two outside length pieces an equal amount for the desired finished width, allowing for a 2” hem on both sides. The length should be correct.
2. Press seams open, or press to one side and topstitch both seam allowances together as shown. (Figure 4.)
3. Try the cloth on your table to double-check length and width (drops should be equal on all sides).
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Figure 5
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4 Finish each corner with “easiest-ever miter,” as follows.
5. First, mark the hemline corner point on the wrong side of the tablecloth. Then fold the corner right sides together so that the two raw edges meet forming a 450 angle. (Figure 5.)
6. Fold over the corner point as show, matching raw edges, to form a 900 angle. Draw a light line along the line marked “A.” (Figure 6.)
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Figure 6
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7. Stitch along line A, starting right next to – but not catching – the folded edge. Stitch to within 3/8” of raw edge. Backstitch at both ends of the seam. Trim the seam as shown. (Figure 7.)
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Figure 7
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8. Press the trimmed seam open (a point presser is helpful). Turn right side out. Align the miter in the middle of the corner and press. (Figure 8.)
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Figure 8
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9. On medium-weight or heavy-weight fabric that is tightly woven, simply topstitch the hem in place. On light-weight and ravel-prone fabrics, turn the raw edge under 3/8” and topstitch in place close to this folded edge.
Round Tablecloths
1. Piece and seam as previously instructed for square/rectangular tablecloths. Trim the square, allowing 1” for the hem.
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Figure 9
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2. Before hemmin g, the tableclo th must be rounded. Fold the pieced cloth in half as illustrated, with the fold running parallel to the piecing seams. Align the piecing seams and pin in place. Find the exact center of the folded edge. Pin a firm cord or measuring tape securely to the center point. Pull it taut straight down to the bottom edge and mark the cord or measuring tape with this length. Pivot the cord or tape to form a half circle, as shown, marking the line with tailor’s chalk or water-erasable fabric marker. Trim along this line. (Figure 9.)
3. On ravel-prone fabrics, zigzag along the raw edge, using the following “ease plus” method. Instead of letting the machine’s feed dog regulate the flow of fabric under the presser foot, evenly “force feed” the edge as you stitch. This will take up some of the excess ease along the raw edge and make hemming easier.
4. After zigzagging, simply turn the hem up 1” to the wrong side, pin, and topstitch in place 5/8” from the folded edge. To avoid unsightly ripples, do not stretch the edge as you stitch.
5. For a light, airy-looking finish, instead of hemming, try the following double satin stitch method. The first satin stitch should be formed with a zigzag stitch that is narrow and close together, like a buttonhole stitch. Sew this satin stitch 1” from the raw edge (the tablecloth’s finished length), using the “ease-plus” method. Carefully trim close to the stitching. Stitch again directly over the first stitching, using a slightly wider zigzag stitch, again using the “ease-plus” method.
By Gail Brown, from All New Instant Interiors (Krause Publications)
7/03
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