If you’re having trouble threading your  machine needle and your machine doesn’t offer a built-in threader, consider using a self-threading needle. It’s made by Schmetz Needles and offers an eye with a slot on one side. If you can see the slot, simply pull the thread into it. If you’re not able to see the slot, hold the thread tautly against the inside portion of the needle and slide it down the needle shaft until it slips into the slot. Keep in mind that this needle is more fragile since the eye portion is not complete.

For hand sewing needles, look for slotted needles with the opening at the top of the eye. Simple pop the thread into the slit and pull down on it to snap it into the needle eye.

Another option for threading both hand and machine needles is to purchase a separate needle threader. Some brands come in sets offering different configurations for varying needle types. For example, if you’re a needleworker, select the needlework threader to use with heavier stitchery threads or narrow ribbons. Other threaders offer a simple wire loop to slide through the needle eye and pull the thread through. Most threaders can be used by sight or feel.

A licensed fabric is one where the manufacturer has a legal agreement with the creator of the artwork or design printed on the goods. For example, there are some fabrics that showcase Disney characters or other movie studio heroes, or a particular brand of candy, just as examples. In these instances, the fabric company has to pay the owners of the trademarked icons a fee and/or a royalty for the use of their imagery.

There may be restrictions on the use of the fabric printed with these images. Most common is that you cannot use the fabric to create something and sell it, like at a craft fair or bazaar. Restrictions are often printed on the selvage of the fabric with phrases like “for personal use only.” Other times you’ll need to read the end of the bolt to check on any usage restrictions.

If you don’t adhere to the licensing terms, you can find yourself entangled in a lawsuit for copyright violation, depending on how seriously the company wants to pursue its rights.  It’s best not to take the chance; honor the agreement.

The term microfiber simply means a very fine fiber. In current sewing use it refers to a thin man-made fiber such as polyester, nylon, acetate or sometimes rayon. The fibers can be made into woven or knitted fabrics that are strong and durable, but sometimes a challenge to sew and press.

For woven microfiber fabrics, sew them holding the seamline in front and back of the needle as you stitch to avoid puckering. Or the seams can also be serged. To hold seams flat, they’re often topstitched after pressing (see Guideline 12.225 Topstitching) for more information.

Microfiber fabrics are very soft and drapable, so are popular for dresses and loose fitting tops or pants

In addition to the practical construction techniques, you’ll find a myriad of decorative applications detailed as well. Look for information on trapunto, trims, fabric manipulation, pleating, embroidery and more.

If you want to put the techniques into practice, projects are included with each section so you can practice what you’ve learned.

The book comes with a CD that contains 100 designs for both hand and machine embroidery. They run the gamut from animals and flowers to fruits and vegetables and the ever familiar days of the week kitties for dishtowels. The CD includes the designs in seven common machine embroidery formats, plus jpeg and PDF files if you want to utilize them for hand stitching transfers.

In addition to an interesting history of Redwork, you’ll find detailed information about various thread types and stitching techniques. Twelve projects give you the opportunity to use the motifs on aprons, towels, quilts, aprons and home decor items and more.

This book is a step down memory lane if you were a Workbasket subscriber. If not, you’ll appreciate the history behind this iconic magazine updated for modern stitchers.

Buying a used machine can be a great idea, especially if you’re new to sewing and not sure what you’ll really need as your interest develops. It’s also economical and many established sewers are opting to buy used. Dealers take in machines on trade constantly and they refurbish them (where needed) and resell them at a lower price than a comparable new machine.

The same factors should be considered when purchasing used, as when buying a new machine. What features do you need for the kind of sewing you do? Think about this seriously before visiting a dealer, as it’s easy to become enamored with the ducks and tulips, even if you have no possible use for these decorative stitches (there’s always dish towels and table napkins that look cute with fun hems)!

Check out the utility stitches–straight, zigzag, blindhemming, mending and buttonholes, as these are the most frequently used for general sewing. Take some sample fabrics with you and sew on the machine yourself, don’t just watch a trained salesperson sew on it. Check the tensions, and the ease of changing from stitch to stitch, and making adjustments to the stitch length and width. Try sewing with different thread weights and types. Ask what accessories the machine comes with–commonly you’ll get a zipper foot, buttonhole foot and all-purpose or zigzag foot; others may be available for purchase. If you’re a quilter, check to see if the machine has a walking foot, either built-in or available separately.

Ask about service for the machine. Does it come with a warranty or guarantee? Can you return it if you don’t like it for some reason, or if you want to trade up? Be sure to check on how to maintain the machine with regular lubrication, tune-ups, cleanings, etc.

If you’re a new sewer, take a sewing friend with you to help evaluate the machine as you put it through the paces.

SEW-lutions Tip: Check out our sewing machine Guidelines (Section 2) on sewing.org to learn more about machines.

Rotary cutters come in several sizes, from 18mm to 45mm blades, and are perfect for cutting long, straight cuts. Quilters love them for their speed and accuracy. Because of the sharp blade, a rotary cutter must be used with a protective mat underneath the area being cut. When using them for cutting long straight edges, they’re best paired with a ruler which serves as an edge guide.

Some garment sewers use rotary cutters for cutting out their patterns, but their nature can make them a little tricky to use around tight curves. If you’re cutting tight armholes and neckline curves, use a smaller size blade; reserve the larger blades for longer, straighter sections like skirt side seams and hemlines.

Whether you use scissors or a rotary cutter is really a matter of preference and what works for you. Try both methods, then decide.

In addition to the straight blade, rotary cutting blades come in pinking, scalloped and other novelty edges, perfect for finishing fleece and other non-woven fabrics.

SEW-lutions Tip: For more information on rotary cutters and scissors, see SEW-lutions Guidelines #1.130 Scissors and Shears and #1.133 Rotary Cutters