Most patterns that call for ribbed cuffs or neckbands include a pattern for those pieces, or at least a suggestion of a ratio for good fit. Ribbings differ in stretchability based on their fiber content and knit pattern, so there’s no absolute answer to this question. You want a ribbing that will lie flat without rippling, and that will hug the neckline or wrist. The general rule of thumb is to cut the ribbing 2/3 to 3/4 of the distance of the piece it’s being applied to. For example, if a neckline circumference is 16″, ribbing can be around 12″. It’s best to pin a circle of ribbing in the size you think will work and then try it over your hand, wrist or head to see how it looks. Be sure to fold it as it will be when finished, and do be careful as the cut edge of some ribbings run when stretched. Be sure to apply the ribbing with a stretchable stitch or serger to avoid having broken stitches when it stretches.

SEW-lutions tip: For more fun sewing projects ideas, visit www.sewing.org.

A quick way to make a great bookmark is to fuse together two layers of felt using fusible web. This makes it sturdier than just a single felt layer and offers the option for a dual color piece. Let your new sewer stitch away and then trim the edges to finish.

You can also add beads, charms, tassels and other findings to embellish the bookmark and make it into a lovely gift for a parent or friend.

Visit www.sewing.org for more project ideas

Some sewing machines tout that they can sew over pins, but anytime you try to sew over any “foreign” object, you’re risking damage to the needle and perhaps the machine itself. Most of today’s machines can sew over pins, but it’s not really a good idea to do so. If you hit the pin, you can break the needle sending sharp metal flying into you and/or the machine. Or, you can damage the needle creating a burr on it that you might not notice, and it can snag and damage your fabric as you continue to sew.

If you’re intent on sewing over pins, be sure to place them at right angles to the seam allowance and sew slowly as you approach them. A better option is to sew up to the pin, then pull it out and continue on.

The trick decorators use is to back the outer pillow fabric with lightweight batting to create a continuous smooth surface. The stuffing goes inside the batting and no lumps are visible on the outside.

If you prefer, make a separate inner pillow from the lightweight batting and stuff it firmly before inserting it into the outer pillow. This allows the outer shell to be removed and either cleaned or washed if needed.

When you’re stuffing a pillow insert, try to blend together the handfuls of stuffing rather than leaving them as separate clumps. You’ll have smoother look to the finished item.

SEW-lutions Tip: See SEW-lutions Guideline #8.120 for more information on creating pillows.

Not only is it important to have a spotless sewing room when working with light-color fabrics to avoid getting them dirty, but it’s also time to clean the machine and the iron soleplate as well. And perhaps replace the ironing board cover if it has smears of fusible or any discoloration.

On thin light color fabrics, it’s worth thinking about lining or underlining the garment to keep the inner structure from showing through. Think seriously before choosing a fusible interfacing with adhesive that might be clearly seen at the blouse front, and opt instead for a nude color lightweight fabric to stabilize the area, or a piece of self fabric. Also consider making the front of the garment a double layer of fabric to give it more opacity.

Think twice about the notions you use as well…who wants to see silver snaps shining through a white gauze top? Opt instead for clear nylon snaps that won’t catch the eye of admirers.

Elastic thread can be used in your sewing machine’s bobbin with regular or novelty thread on top. When stitching, the thread stretches and shirrs up the fabric. Use it to simulate smocking, gather in cuffs or sleeve hems, pucker up bodices, or any other place where you need a gathered look but with flexibility.

When you go to the notions counter, be sure you’re getting elastic thread and not elastic cord, which is a bit larger and designed for handwork or couching. Wind the thread onto the bobbin by hand, being careful not to stretch it was you wind. The average bobbin won’t hold much, so be sure to check it as you’re making lines of stitching on your project so you don’t run out in the middle.

Practice on some samples before beginning your project to see if tension adjustments are needed to produce the appropriate amount of shirring. Elastic can also be pulled up after stitching if more pucker is needed.

Straight, zigzag, multiple zigzag or other open stitches like scallops work well when sewn with elastic thread in the bobbin. It may be necessary to lengthen the stitch from the normal setting for the desired look. Lightweight fabrics work best for this technique.

Be sure to securely tie off the thread ends when you have the size and amount of gathering you’re looking for, whether a single row or multiple rows. It’s easy for the elastic thread to untie itself, so stitching over the knotted thread ends within the seam allowance helps to be sure they stay securely anchored.

There are several ways to do this successfully and save those cute snowmen, Santas or whatever design you love. If the sweater is wool, one of the easiest ways to work with it is to felt it. Throw the sweater into the washer and dryer on hot temperature settings and let the fibers shrink and compact. This will alter the design motifs slightly, but you can then simply cut the fabric into any shape you want without fear of it raveling. Felted fabric is sturdier than its original knit state as the wool fibers have interlocked closely.

If you don’t want a felted look, or the sweater is synthetic, consider fusing a lightweight interfacing behind the area you want to save, before cutting into it. This will stabilize the knit and add some body to keep the cut edges from pulling out.

If you prefer not to add additional stability to the area, simply stitch around the motifs you want to recycle and cut close to the stitching to prevent raveling.