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Sewing fleece, lining pants, shortening a zipper

Sewing dilemmas usually have simple answers.

How do I finish fleece edges, both on clothing and on a double-layer blanket?

Fleece is one of the easiest fabrics to work with, as it doesn’t ravel. On garments, you can finish the edges by simply turning them under once and stitching, either with one or two needles. Another option is to add ribbing to the edge–like at cuffs, necklines or lower hems. Depending on the project, you can also simply cut slashes and make fringe. For a double-layer fleece blanket, a quick and easy finish is to fringe the edges and tie the two layers together in overhand or square knots.

How do I line pants that don’t call for it?

Cut the lining using the same front and back pattern pieces as you did for the pants themselves, eliminating any pockets. After constructing the pants and lining up to the point of the waistband, slide the lining into the pants wrong sides together and baste at the upper edge. Turn and finish the zipper area of the lining. Attach the waistband to the pants catching the lining in the seam. Hem the pant lining legs 1-2″ shorter than the actual pant leg and stitch a French tack to anchor the leg lining at the seamline. Hand tack the lining around the zipper area.

How do I shorten a zipper?

It’s easy to shorten most zippers–simply do so at the upper edge. Stitch the zipper in place first, extending the length into the upper seam allowance. After stitching, trim the excess zipper tape length 1/2″ above the desired finished length and clip off the extra teeth. On metal zippers, you can use pliers to remove the original stop and relocate it if desired. On molded plastic tooth zippers, simply hand stitch a bartack at the upper edge to keep the pull from sliding off, then finish the upper edge opening as the pattern recommends. If you prefer to shorten a placket zipper from the lower end, extend the tape beyond the opening, stitch across the tape/teeth several times, and trim the excess length after installation.

Cool Jewelry, Cloth Dolls & Fabric Wrapping

As National Sewing Month draws to a close, I hope you’ve used your skills to help teach someone to sew, perhaps helped a community group like Project Linus or the Girl Scouts, and that you’ve enriched your own repertoire of sewing expertise by reading some really good books. If you haven’t gotten around to the latter just yet, let me recommend three that are great fun, keeping in mind that our love of fabric spans many other crafts in addition to garment making.

If you enjoy using common crafting materials in uncommon ways, check out Custom Cool Jewelry, by Melinda Barta. Pendants, charms, beads and stitched fabric pieces will send you to your stash for just the right findings. And there’s lots of opportunities to expand your knowledge base if you’re a novice jewelry maker by learning about the various types of clasps, hardware, tools, etc. Over 200 projects fill this colorful tome.

Once you’ve created some fun fabric jewelry, wrap it up in style by following the illustrations and photos in Wrapagami, by Jennifer Playford. It’s all about fun ways to wrap gifts with fabrics, derived from the Japanese tradition called tsutsumi. The innovative cloakings are the perfect way to showcase beautiful fabrics, and the recipient can also reuse the fabrics for another purpose. The twists and ties are easy to do and the intrique is ever so fun with these 25 ways to wrap.

Think outside the box to the world of dollmaking with Cloth Dolls for Textile Artists, by Ray Slater. This book details not only the structural insights for creating bodies, faces and clothing, but also information on a wide range of textile techniques from embroidery and stenciling to felting, stamping and dyeing, so you don’t even have to be a dollmaker to learn from this colorful book. Personally, I’ve never made a cloth doll since early childhood, and that one certainly didn’t have the finesse of those shown in this book. But, after reading this, I’m intrigued to give it a try. Who knew I’d someday be forming wire armatures wrapped in colorful threads and braids, then making clothes with more details than many of my own?

There are so many great fabric, sewing and embellishment books out there today that it’s hard to pick just one, so share with your friends and expand your knowledge base continually–it keeps your brain from getting rusty, as my mom used to say!

Repairing Sheers, Cleaning Irons


How do I repair a tear in a sheer fabric?

Fixing rips in sheers can be tricky and it’s inevitable that it won’t be totally invisible, but you can get close. The easiest way is to use a  mending product like BoNash Bonding Agent, powdered fusible, to adhere the torn edges together. When the product dries, it creates an almost invisible mend.

Another way to repair a tear if you have extra sheer fabric, is to carefully trim the torn edges and place a small strip of very thin fusible web (like Misty Fuse) under the rip and another piece of the sheer behind it. Fuse in place according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then carefully trim away the sheer patch layer to minimize the show-through.

What’s the best way to clean the inside of my iron?

I consulted with Rowenta on this one, and their advice is two-fold. If the iron has a self-cleaning function, activate it following the manufacturer’s instructions.

If the iron doesn’t have a cleaning function, flush it with naturally bottled spring water–pure and simple. Avoid using vinegar or any chemicals, as they may damage the water tank in some irons.

To flush the iron, fill it with water and let it heat to the cotton setting temperature. When it’s heated, depress the steam button until all the water has emptied from the iron. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times for a thorough flushing.

National Sewing Month contest update

There’s only 10 days left to enter the National Sewing Month Reuse, Remake, Restyle contest. We are receiving entries daily and I continue to be awed and inspired by the project pics that are coming in.  The contest ends September 30 and we’ll be picking the 3 winning entries by October 20. We’ll also be posting all the entries so that you can be inspired too.

Happy stitching!

Janice Blasko, Sewing & Craft Alliance

Sweatshirt Surprises

Who doesn’t love the comfort of sweats–they’re soft, they always fit no matter what, and they’re warm? Sweats can be dressed up with the right accessories, or simply left as-is for at-home appeal.

But authors Carmen Webber and Carmia Marshall have taken sweats several steps toward real fashion in their latest book Chic Sweats. Personally, I’m sometimes skeptical of “re-do” books as the results often look contrived to me, but these styles offer some fun touches that all begin with the humble sweatshirt. It’s well written and cleverly illustrated with not only fashion images, but step-by-step how-tos, all drawn by one of the authors.

If you’re a beginner, there’s good information to get you started, and if you’re an experienced sewer, it doesn’t disappoint as there are some more-than-simple modifications as well. Unlike some re-do books, this one finishes seams and edges on most projects, and uses standard sewing techniques we all appreciate. There’s teen appeal as well as things of interest to sewers of all ages. This book is a good read and a keeper in my opinion!