How do I sew swimwear fabric?

Swim fabrics are made with Lycra–a VERY stretchable knit that allows for form fitting styles, and that holds its shape when wet, so you don’t end up with a sagging swimsuit in the water. The best way to sew this fabulous fabric is with a serger, if you have one. Use a 3- or 4-thread overlock stitch to finish the edges and sew the seam in one pass. Since swimwear patterns usually have a 1/4 inch seam, a serged seam is ideal. If you don’t have a serger, use a narrow zigzag stitch to build stretch into the seam.

It’s imperative to use a stretch or ballpoint needle on Lycra to avoid leaving holes in the seam that could later make bigger, unsightly holes as you wear the suit.

To finish edges of straps, necklines and leg openings, use chlorine-proof elastic (the clear type works well) and stitch it directly to the suit, turn to the inside and topstitch with a zigzag to hold it in place. Another option is to insert the elastic in a casing, depending on the pattern directions.

Be sure to follow the pattern guidesheet when cutting a swimsuit to get the maximum fabric stretch in the proper direction–the suit’s fit depends on it.

Is there a way to join sheer curtain panels for a wider window?

Usually individual panels are simply placed side by side on a common rod. However, if you really want to hook them together without removing side hems, I’d recommend a line of fusible thread at the overlap. Because of its size, a 1/4″ overlap would be barely visible and the narrow thread will hold the layers  in place. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying the thread and use a press cloth to avoid damaging the sheer fabric. Test-press on a hem allowance first.

How can I make a tablecloth without seaming the fabric?

Several manufacturers now make fabrics up to 120″ wide for home decorating uses and also for quilt backings. The added width allows for seamless construction of curtains, drapes and tablecloths. Check your local fabric and quilting stores for the wider goods, or search online for “extra-wide fabrics” to find vendors. It allows you to have a more professional appearance for your home dec projects. For more information on making tablecloths, see Guideline #7130 Table Treatments: Tablecloths.

Sheers are great for summerwear, but they can also challenge even the most even tempered and experienced sewers. They move around a lot during cutting and sewing, they ravel and it’s difficult to get even seamlines and hems. Here are some helpful hints for taming these challenging fabrics:

• Choose patterns with minimal seaming and design details. Remember, everything (like darts and fitting seams) shows through the fabric.
• Layer tissue paper under them when cutting and pin right to the paper. Cut through both layers.
• Before you remove the paper, transfer pattern markings using a removable marker (test first on a scrap), pins or tailor tacks.
• Test-stitch on fabric scraps to determine the best seam finishes and sewing techniques, tensions and pressing options.
• To avoid puckered seams, hold the fabric layers taughtly in front of and behind the presser foot. Don’t stretch the fabric, just hold securely. If necessary for control, stitch through water-soluble stabilizer and remove it later, or spray the fabric layers lightly with temporary spray adhesive to keep them in place.
• Since all the construction details show through the fabric, make narrow seams–either serged, double-stitched and trimmed, or French seams. For help, see the Guideline on Seam Finishes. 
• Use a new, small size needle to avoid snags. A straight stitch presser foot and/or needle plate are also helpful, as the single round hole helps keep the fabric from poking down into the machine’s wider zigzag opening.
• Let garments hang at least 24 hours before hemming, then trim evenly.

Most of all, be patient with the process and focus on how fabulous your finished garment will be. No fabric should get the best of us!