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Zipper Shortening, Tapered Pants Legs and Skirt Hems

How do I shorten a zipper?

Most zippers can be shortened in one of two ways. If it’s an open-top zipper (like a separating jacket zipper), simply extend the excess length into the upper seamline, then trim after the zipper is inserted. Leave about 1/2″ of zipper tape beyond the upper seamline. To reinforce and be sure the slider doesn’t come off, bartack across the teeth on one or both sides at the upper seamline.

For a placket zipper, the above method works as well, or simply leave the excess length at the bottom of the zipper application, stitch across the tape several times and trim the additional length off about 1/2″ below the placket opening.

If you’re shortening the zipper from the top and you have a zipper with a removable stop, relocate it to the new length to prevent the slider from coming off.

How do I shorten tapered pant legs?

Shortening a tapered leg can be tricky because the area you’re turning back is smaller than the area you need to attach it to. If you simply hem it, the hemline will be puckered. Instead, reshape the hemline and the seam within the hem so the sizes match. For step-by-step details, see Guideline 14.120 Shortening Pants and Sleeves.

What’s a good edge finish for skirt hems?

Although this question is akin to “How big is the sky?” there are several right answers. The type of fabric and the style of the skirt will determine the edge finish. If it’s a non-ravelly type, perhaps a single line of stitching and a pinked edge will suffice. If it’s a raveller, cover the edge with seam tape or serge it to prevent further fraying. If the skirt is shaped, it will be necessary to ease in the extra fullness before hemming, so use a gathering line, pull it up and then apply seam tape to the eased edge. For a lined skirt, no edge finish may be needed if the lining covers the upper hem edge.

On straight skirts made from light- to medium-weight fabrics, it’s also feasible to simply turn under and stitch the upper hem edge 1/4″ to finish.

Terry Cloth Loops, Frogs and Skipped Stitches

Questions du jour and some answers:

How do I repair terry cloth loops? Can I just cut them?

It’s best not to simply cut the snagged loops as they may unravel more and leave holes in your garment. Visit the notions counter at you favorite fabric store and look of a knit repair tool. The tool has a small hook on it to pull snags (and in this case loops) back into the fabric to avoid further damage. If you choose to snip off pulled loops, apply a drop of fray preventer first to help prevent any further damage.

How do I sew on frogs?

Frogs and Chinese knot buttons are best attached by hand for an inconspicuous look. Machine stitching can be done, but the visible stitches often detract from the ornate look of this great closure. Use thread that matches the trim and work from the garment underside. If there’s a front facing, open it out to work only from the garment wrong side, then let the facing cover the stitching underside. Use a double thread and a stab stitch to anchor the corded closure in place, reinforcing it near the usable loops.  Try to keep the stitches between the cords to help hide them. Be sure all edges are well anchored.

I tried sewing lingerie, but my machine just skips stitches all the time on the tricot fabric. How can I prevent this?

Firstly, be sure to use a ballpoint needle as tricot or any soft knit is a big challenge for many sewing machine. The needle helps prevent damage to the knit by going between the knit loops as it forms stitches as opposed to piercing them. Use a narrow zigzag stitch on the conventional machine to build some flexibility into the seam (or use a serger). If the machine continues to have problems stitching, change to a straight-stitch needle plate (and a straight stitch). Another option is to try using tissue paper or tear-away stabilizer under the stitching line, or lightly spray starch the seamline and allow to dry before stitching. If none of these work, visit your sewing machine dealer and have them check the machine for you. Perhaps an internal adjustment is needed.

Fall Quilt Market 2009

Each fall quilt shop owners descend upon Houston, Texas for the extravaganza of the season–Quilt Market. They come to buy things that they later sell to us in their stores. As a writer, I’m allowed in to look for new products and network with the various companies in attendance, so I can share their news with you in stories and venues like this. There are special media events, TV filmings, etc. that also happen at the show and perhaps you’ll be seeing news about the event on your favorite sewing/quilting shows. There are ongoing demos of new products and also special events just for magazine editors and writers to learn about new products.

So, what’s new? Look for more and more kits–for stuffed animals, clothing and quilts themselves. Kits save you the hassle (and in some cases anxiety) of picking out coordinated fabrics for projects–you just pick up a cleverly packed bag of components. Lots of great books coming out in the fall–one really helpful one is called Marvelous Miters, by Susan Cleveland–it simplifies those pesky corners not only on quilts, but the same techniques apply to garments. Susan also has a new tool for making precise prairie points.

I saw some wonderfully soft bamboo/rayon felt from National Nonwovens, and a new line of visual-assist products from Simplicity cleverly called C.C. Bigger–if you need a magnifier, check it out later this fall. Ghee’s has rainbow tooth zippers that are great fun, and Clover Needlework is coming out with some new Yo-Yo Makers–a butterfly and a shamrock. Looking ahead to spring ‘10, an oval yo-yo maker is on the drawing board.

Of more costly interest, is the new Baby Lock Sashiko machine. It makes that wonderfully precise running stitch traditonally done by hand, but now by machine. There’s no top thread, only a slotted needle and wire arm mechanism to catch the thread making the stitches with a bobbin thread. Check your local dealer for a demo…it’s pretty darn cool!

Another new book and demo I saw was on dyeing fabrics with permanent markers. Design Originals has published Creative Dyeing for Fabric Arts which explains the very easy technique of coloring with markers and then adding alcohol to blend the colors–even kids can create some wonderful things using this technique.

So, be on the lookout in the coming season for these new and innovative products.

Top DIY Halloween Costumes for 2009

Halloween is the one time of year when it’s socially acceptable – and expected – to wear something totally over-the-top, absolutely ridiculous, or perfectly funny. Sewers and crafters of all skill levels can take advantage of this opportunity to create a costume for their own inner child, whether it’s a fairy princess or a swashbucklin’ pirate. To help you decide what kind of character you’d like to be, we have released our annual Top DIY Halloween Costumes for 2009. Have a fun time!

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Off to Fall Quilt Market

I’m about ready to get on a plane to Houston, Texas to attend one of the industry’s largest events–Quilt Market. You’ve probably heard about it, or its counterpart Quilt Festival. Market is where shop owners go to see the latest new products and fabrics, and order them for their stores…they’re ordering fabric by the bolt, and quantities of items to stock, so it’s a wholesale show only.

I go to the show to learn what’s new in the industry so I can share it with you, and to help give me new ideas for magazine stories. Although I can’t buy anything there, I can certainly soak it all in.

Next week, I’ll write about what’s new and any new industry gossip I hear at the show–there’s always something unexpected.

In the interim, keep sewing and make something great for Halloween–whether it’s a cool costume to wear, or something to decorate divine.