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Fashion Sewing

Project provided courtesy of:

Janome America  ©

Serger Robe

Everyone should have an elegant dressing robe. Any robe pattern with a front band and in-seam pockets can be used. And instead of following the pattern guide sheet, use these easy-to-follow instructions to reduce the sewing time. The two samples show different hem finishes using the coverstitch and flatlock stitch. These robes would also be a great place to add decorative stitching or embroidery embellishment for a personalized touch.

These project instructions are specific to Janome brand machines; however, the project can be adapted for use on other machines.

Janome Supplies Required

  • Memory Craft Compulock or MyLock 644D
  • Janome Overlock thread 90 wt. 
  • Serger needles size 11
  • Topstitch needles size 14 (Compulock only)

Fabric and Notions RequiredSerger robe from Janome from www.janome.com

  • Pattern - Simplicity #7051 or any robe pattern with a front band and in-seam pockets
  • Fabric (yardage according to pattern and size)
  • Decorative serger thread
  • Tube turner
  • Hemming gauge
  • Glue stick
  • Seam sealant
  • Hand sewing needle

Pattern Preparation and Cutting

1. Attach the pocket pattern piece to front pattern. Cut the front and pockets as one piece.

2. Attach the pocket pattern piece to the back pattern. Cut the back and pockets as one piece.

3. Cut band 2” longer than the pattern.

Instructions

1. Set up the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch with Janome Overlock thread in all positions. Refer to the manual for the suggested settings and tensions.

2. Serge the shoulder seams right sides together, using 5/8” seam allowance. Press seam as sewn and then press seam towards the back.

3. Attach the sleeves. Press seam as sewn and then press seam towards the sleeve.

4. Secure belt loops to back with glue stick, matching loops to notches.

5. Starting at the bottom, serge the side seams. Press seams as sewn. Hint: The pockets are inside corners so go slowly and turn quickly.

6. Try robe on to determine how much to hem the sleeves.

7. Following listed steps below, finish hems with a Coverstitch (Compulock) or Flatlock stitch (644D), depending on the Janome serger you own.

8. Set up the serger for a 4-thread Overlock stitch. Refer to manual for suggested settings and tensions. Place Janome Overlock thread in all positions.

9. Serge the two band strips together where indicated by notches. Fold band in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Do not press.

10. Match the center seam of the band to the center back of the robe. Cut a small notch at the center back.

11. Serge from the center back down to approximately 6" from the hem. Stop, but do not remove the robe from the serger. Turn under the excess band to match the length of the robe. Continue serging to the hem.

12. Starting at the center back again, repeat step 11 for other side of robe.

13. Serge the two strips for the belt together where indicated by notches. Fold under the short ends 1/2” and press.

14. Fold belt in half lengthwise with right sides together. Serge down the long side only. Do not serge across the short ends.

15. Turn belt right side out and press. Using a hand sewing needle and thread, hand stitch closed the ends of the band and the belt.

Coverstitch Hem (Compulock)

1. Clean finish raw edge of both sleeves. Clean finish raw edge of bottom hem.

2. Turn under sleeves and bottom hem approximately 2” and press.

3. Set up the Compulock for a Coverstitch with decorative serger thread in the chain looper.

4. Place the topstitch needles in the two front needle positions for the Coverstitch. Use Janome Overlock thread for the two needles.

5. Set front left needle tension to 3.2, front right needle tension to 3.2, and chain looper tension to 2.2.

6. Set stitch length to 3.2 and set differential feed to 1.0.

7. Test stitch on scrap fabric to determine if additional adjustments are required.

8. Stitching on the wrong side and using the previously serged seam as a guide, serge the sleeves and the bottom hem.

9. Use a hand-sewing needle to take the excess decorative thread to the wrong side and secure with a knot.

Flatlock Hem (MyLock 644D)

1. Turn under sleeve 1/2” and press. Turn under 1” and press. Turn under another 1" and press again. Secure with pins. Note: Actually you will only be hemming about 1-1/4”. Remember to always remove pins before they approach the knife.

2. Set up serger for a 3-thread (wide) Flatlock with decorative serger thread in the upper looper. Place Janome Overlock thread in the left needle and lower looper.

3. Set needle tension to 1/2 (between zero and 1), set upper looper tension to 2, and set lower looper tension to 7.

4. Set stitch length to 3 and set differential feed to 1.0.

5. Set the STD/RH lever to RH.

6. Do not cut the fabric but leave the upper knife in the cutting position.

7. Using the inside of the knife as your guide, Flatlock around the left sleeve edge. Open the seam from the wrong side and press.

8. Repeat for other sleeve.

9. Turn under the bottom hem of the robe 1/2” and press. Turn under 1” and press. Then turn under another 1” and press again. Secure with pins. Note: Actually you will only be hemming the robe about 1-1/4”.

10. Using the inside of the knife as your guide, Flatlock the hem of the robe. Open the seam from the wrong side and press.

Created by Maddie Bushman, Educational Coordinator
3/05

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