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Sewing with Sheers

June 30, 2009 – 5:10 pm

Sheers are great for summerwear, but they can also challenge even the most even tempered and experienced sewers. They move around a lot during cutting and sewing, they ravel and it’s difficult to get even seamlines and hems. Here are some helpful hints for taming these challenging fabrics:

  • Choose patterns with minimal seaming and design details. Remember, everything (like darts and fitting seams) shows through the fabric.
  • Layer tissue paper under them when cutting and pin right to the paper. Cut through both layers.
  • Before you remove the paper, transfer pattern markings using a removable marker (test first on a scrap), pins or tailor tacks.
  • Test-stitch on fabric scraps to determine the best seam finishes and sewing techniques, tensions and pressing options.
  • To avoid puckered seams, hold the fabric layers taughtly in front of and behind the presser foot. Don’t stretch the fabric, just hold securely. If necessary for control, stitch through water-soluble stabilizer and remove it later, or spray the fabric layers lightly with temporary spray adhesive to keep them in place.
  • Since all the construction details show through the fabric, make narrow seams–either serged, double-stitched and trimmed, or French seams. For help, see the Guideline on Seam Finishes. 
  • Use a new, small size needle to avoid snags. A straight stitch presser foot and/or needle plate are also helpful, as the single round hole helps keep the fabric from poking down into the machine’s wider zigzag opening.
  • Let garments hang at least 24 hours before hemming, then trim evenly.

Most of all, be patient with the process and focus on how fabulous your finished garment will be. No fabric should get the best of us!

By LindaG | Posted in Sewing, Quilting & Embroidery Tips & Techniques
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Sewing Machine Needles

June 23, 2009 – 12:12 pm

Several of you have asked about needles and which type is best for sewing on specific fabrics.

As you know, the right needle is of the utmost importance and sometimes we ignore it totally until something goes wrong. Generally, we don’t change needles often enough. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard someone say “I only change it when it breaks.” It makes me cringe, as the needle determines the stitch quality for the entire garment–not only how well the stitches are formed that hold the project together–but also the appearance of any visible stitching, like topstitching, buttonholes, etc.

Please download and read Guideline 22.115 Sewing Machine Needle Chart, as it details not only what we’d consider standard sewing needle types, but also the specialty options that you may be less familiar with. Just like having lots of fabric in your stash, you need lots of needles in your drawer, so you’ll have the right one to match up with the sewing situation.

A question that comes up frequently is about needles for knits, especially lightweight fabrics like golf shirts and T-shirts. A stretch or ballpoint needle works best on these  knits. The rounded or semi-rounded tip goes between the fabric’s fibers, not through them to damage the knit (and potentially cause runs or make holes). Both types are also available as double needles, so you can make professional looking hems with two parallel rows of stitches.

So, invest in several needle types to match up properly with the things you’re sewing and remember, there’s no one-type-fits-all needle!

By LindaG | Posted in Sewing, Quilting, Embroidery & Craft Products
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New Notions - Simplicity Bias Tape Maker and Rotary Cutter

June 17, 2009 – 8:00 am

At Spring Quilt Market, a show only for industry members and shop owners, two new products were launched I know you’ll be interested in. Both come from Simplicity Notions and are real timesavers.

The first is a rotary cutting machine. You simply set the width you need, up to 2 1/4″ wide, step on the pedal and voila–it zips the fabric through the rotary blade and cuts your strips evenly. A pinking blade comes with the cutter so you can created zigzag edges as well as straight ones using the standard blade. If you make an initial cut on the bias, this machine will zip out bias strips for bindings in no time. More decorative blades will be coming out soon. In addition to cutting fabric, it will also cut paper, so scrapbookers will love this one too.

The second new notion is an electric bias tape maker, destined to fold and press 12 yards of bias in 60 seconds. No more tediously trying to press bias tape into shape and burning fingertips. Several folder sizes are available, depending on the finished width you need, and the temperature of the pressing unit is adjustable for various fabrics. There’s even an auto-shut-off (after 10 minutes of non-use) for safety.

Remember, it’s not too early to start a holiday wish list!

By LindaG | Posted in Sewing as a business, Sewing, Quilting, Embroidery & Craft Products
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Sewing oddities–marabou, boning & elastic

June 11, 2009 – 12:19 pm

I’ve received some unique sewing questions lately and thought I’d answer them together:

How do I attach marabou trim to an evening dress?

Marabou is actually feathers sewn, glued and/or wrapped on a central fiber core and the wispy trim is easy to attach by hand. Simply pull back the feathery ends and hand stitch it to the garment, catching only the core. Be careful not to catch the feathers in the thread loops as you apply it. Before you trim the ends, be sure to stitch through them several times on their own,  so they don’t unravel creating feathers everywhere. Another option is to apply the trim while the ends of the seam are still open, and then encase the ends when you finish stitching the seam. Note that the feathers are best removed from the garment before cleaning, so attach them securely, but temporarily.

What’s the best way to hold up a strapless dress?

Any strapless garment needs to fit very snugly, so make a test-fit muslin before making the actual garment. Line and/or underline the bodice and stitch boning to the seamlines. There are several types of boning, but the easiest to use is Rigeline, as it can actually be stitched through for the seam allowance attachment. Other bonings need to be inserted into a casing either between the layers or with added fabric to create casings. For complete step-by-step instructions, search online or consult a comprehensive sewing text. Boning is the key to keeping a strapless garment in place and modestly placed.

Why does my elastic stretch out when I sew it?

There are several types of elastic, and most aren’t meant to be sewn through. When you sew through elastic, it pierces the rubber or synthetic stretch fibers, causing them to distort, without recovery. Most elastics are best placed in a casing for protection, however, if you want to sew through the elastic for an exposed application or to anchor it within the casing, select a woven elastic (as opposed to knitted or braided) and look for the term “sew-through” or “sewable” on the package. If you put elastic through a casing, it can be sewn through at side and center seams to keep the fullness in place without affecting its stretch. For more information on sewing with elastic, visit the Sewing Guidelines page and view Guidelines 6.145 Elastic - The Notion that Gives

By LindaG | Posted in Sewing, Quilting & Embroidery Tips & Techniques
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Summer Sewing

June 5, 2009 – 2:08 pm

I don’t know about you, but summer is always a great time for me to sew. One reason is that I get up earlier when sunshine streams in the window to wake me. Since I work from my home, I don’t usually set an alarm unless I have to be someplace, but rather simply let myself wake up naturally. Or more truly, when my three dogs wake me, but they seem to sleep longer in the winter just like I do. Perhaps it’s that bear hibernation thing.

Since I get up and going early in the summer, I always surprise myself when I check the clock and it’s earlier than I think based on the “necessary” things I got done already (like loading the dishwasher, sweeping, vacuuming, etc.)–you know those chores. BUT, then I reward myself with sewing time, and that seems to go fast.

Some days I don’t do any necessary things, I just start with sewing! In fact most days it’s like that–I don’t like chores, but occasionally they become necessary, like when someone might be coming to visit and I’d be embarrassed otherwise. Around our house we call this “crisis cleaning.” I do the same for the sewing room if a fellow sewer is coming over. Perhaps you do the same.

I always have a stack of sewing projects waiting, some to be finished, other to be started, so I choose my pleasure for the day and enjoy the great weather while it’s around. Summer is simply a great time to sew–but of course, so is winter, fall and spring–it’s not a seasonal hobby, but one we love all year.

By LindaG | Posted in General Information