With the recent resurgence of sewing, certain essentials need to be addressed before beginning a project. Correctly measuring the body and transferring those figures to a commercial pattern or drafting one of your own should be your first priority. Accurate measurements are vital since a quarter inch added or subtracted on one part of a pattern piece could end up adding or subtracting up to one inch on the over-all garment. Keep in mind that each garment is comprised of a left and right side for the front as well as the back so you will generally be adding or subtracting one forth of the amounts required when altering the pattern. The illustrations and measuring instructions seen here are sufficient for altering patterns. However, drafting a pattern is more complicated and utilizes more measurements. A tape measure that won’t stretch, one quarter inch twill tape or elastic for tying around the body to facilitate accuracy and writing materials to record numbers are all that are necessary for calculating correct measurements.
Tip: Visit the Guidelines page and read the Guidelines in Section 3 - Understanding Patterns
Ease is the next factor to consider. A certain amount of ease for movement is built into each pattern. This is called “wearing ease.” The extra amount added to accommodate a particular style is called “design ease” and could result in choosing a smaller or larger size pattern.
Woven fabrics such as cottons, linens, silks and tightly woven wools have little or no give and require more wearing ease than knits. Certain rules of thumb apply and are listed below.
Wovens
Full Bust measurement plus 2 to 3 inches
Waist measurement plus 1 to 1 1/2 inches
Hip measurement plus 2 to 3 inches
Knits
Full Bust measurement plus 1 to 2 inches
Waist measurement plus 1 inch
Hip measurement plus 1 to 2 inches
Crotch Depth (Rise)
Measurement plus 1 inch, but varies for comfort
On garments with a natural waistline seam, one quarter inch is added to the neck to waist measurement. This allows a little more freedom of movement when the arms are raised and also eliminates that “short-waisted” appearance common to this style.
Taking accurate measurements generally requires an assistant so having a sewing buddy to call on can be helpful and fun!
