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Learn to Sew - Invisible Zipper Application

An invisible zipper is inserted in an entirely open seam; the rest of the seam is stitched after the application is completed.

  • Use the foot designed for the zipper brand you are using because coil sizes of zippers vary.
  • Stitch from top to bottom of zipper.
  • Apply any facing after the zipper has been sewn in.
  • Before starting, press the zipper as follows, using a synthetic setting: Open zipper; from wrong side, press zipper flat, using point of iron to push coil over so that the two rows of stitching show.

1. Attach the invisible zipper foot to the machine, with the needle lined up with center mark. Place open zipper face-down on right side of fabric as shown. Pin in place with coil on seam line (5/8" in) and top stop " below raw edge of garment (1a). With right-hand groove of foot over coil, stitch zipper until the foot hits the slider (remove pins as you come to them.) Back-tack.

2. To attach the other half of the zipper, pin tape face-down with coil on seam line (5/8" in) and top stop " below raw edge of garment, as before. Make sure that the zipper is not twisted at the bottom. Use the left-hand groove of foot, making sure that the center marking is still lined up with the needle and stitch, as before.

3. Close zipper. Slide zipper foot to the left so that needle is in the outer notch. Pin the seam together below zipper opening. Fold end of zipper out of the way and lower the needle by hand slightly above and to the left of the last stitch.

Stitch seam for about 2", as shown. Pull thread through to one side and tie. Change to regular presser foot and complete the seam.

At zipper end, stitch about 1" of each zipper tape to seam allowance only.

From Coats & Clark’s Sewing Book A to Z

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